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The PPMC sewing lexicon

You've been squinting at our fabrics for so long, now you're ready to start sewing! You've bought your sewing machine, you've stocked up on fabric and thread...

To make it easier for you, we explain the sewing lexicon.

Sewing terms in alphabetical order

A

Assembly :
The process of joining pieces of fabric together so that the work takes shape.

Armhole :
The armhole is where the sleeve is joined to the rest of the garment.

B

Basting
Sewing large temporary stitches with basting thread to prevent pinning during sewing.

Bias
A strip of fabric cut at 45° to the width and folded lengthwise into four equal parts. The bias is used as a finishing touch to cover the edge of a fabric.

Border
To apply a finish to the edge of the fabric, such as a bias or a braid

Buttonhole
A small opening in a fabric for a button to pass through.

Basting stitch
A stitch used at the beginning and end of the seam. It prevents a seam from coming apart over time and can be done by hand or machine.

Braid
A woven or braided band used to decorate a garment.

Building threads
These are threads that are used for building, and are easy to break by hand.

C

Cutting on the bias
Cutting at the point where the fabric is most stretchy, i.e. at 45°.

Crimping
To make notches in the seam allowance especially for rounded seams

Clear the corners
Cut the seam allowance of the corner diagonally, as close to the seam as possible. Once turned over, the corner will be clean and well marked.

Comfortable
Add a few extra inches to a pattern to be more comfortable.

F

Front / Back
The right side of a fabric is one of its faces, the one that will be on the outside of the garment. In the case of patterned fabrics, the right side is the printed side. The reverse side is the other side.

Flattening a seam
To iron the inner seam allowances by separating them on both sides. Also called "opening a seam.

G

Ganser
This is a sewing technique that consists of sewing a strip of fabric on an edge, such as placing a bias.

H

Hemming
The inside finish that consists of folding the fabric on itself twice in a row so that the raw edge of the fabric is invisible.

L

Lining
Adding a piece of fabric to the inside of a garment sewn with a very thin or even transparent fabric. Adding a lining can also hide the seams.

M

Margin
Strip of fabric between the edge and the stitch.

N

Needles
There are two types of needles: the classic ones, i.e. those used for hand sewing, and the sewing machine needles. Among the sewing machine needles, we can find all kinds: universal needle, needle for sewing denim, jersey, stretch, etc., double needle ... The size also varies, generally ranging from 60 to 110 microns (from the smallest to the largest). It is important to know that the finer the fabric to be sewn, the finer the needle must be.
Tips: Sewing needles are standardized, which means that you don't have to choose the same brand as your sewing machine.

Neckline
The neckline is the opening where the collar is attached.

P

Pins
Small thread-like object used to hold fabric together. It is pointed on one side and has a head on the other side.

Piping
A cord sewn between two layers of fabric for decoration.

Pattern
A pattern is a model of a garment printed on paper. Each piece is represented in several sizes. Patterns are usually accompanied by a leaflet that contains all the information needed to make the garment in the best conditions.
You can find patterns on our blog https://www.ppmc-blog.fr/

R

Ruffle
To sew large stitches by hand or machine and pull on them to create small tight folds.

Runner
Small tunnel made in a garment to pass an elastic or a cord

S

Straight stitch
This is the basic stitch on a sewing machine. On almost all machine models, the length of the stitch can be adjusted according to your needs. Most of the time, the straight stitch is 2 mm long.

Seam ripper
Tool that allows you to quickly undo a seam that you have missed, for example.

T

Tape measure
Graduated tape used to take measurements and measurements.

Thread cutter
A small tool that fits in the hand and allows you to cut overflowing threads or the edge of a fabric with precision.